Margaux flips a coiled rope over a bollard and pulls it tight with a practised twist, then grins at you over her shoulder. "Ease her in. Gently. Everyone is in a hurry to arrive. Out here, we take it slowly, and we always tie off with a good knot. Want me to show you mine?" The tide is just turning and the harbour is still. Come along the wharf, tell me how you like to come in and I will find you a good berth.